Your amaryllis has put on a spectacular show of large, trumpet-shaped blooms, but now the flowers are fading and you’re left wondering what happens next. Many people treat amaryllis as disposable holiday plants, but with proper care after blooming, you can keep the bulb healthy and encourage it to flower again next year.
This guide walks you through the complete post-bloom care process, from removing spent flowers to storing the bulb for dormancy and bringing it back to life for another season of blooms.
What Should You Do With an Amaryllis After It Blooms?
After your amaryllis finishes blooming, cut off the flower stalk about two inches above the bulb once all flowers have faded, but leave all the green foliage intact. Continue watering and fertilizing the plant regularly to help the bulb store energy for next year’s bloom cycle, then allow the leaves to die back naturally before inducing a dormancy period.
Remove Spent Flowers Properly
Once the blooms start to wilt and fade, you need to remove them before the plant puts energy into seed production. Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears to cut the thick flower stalk.
Cut the stalk about two inches above the bulb, leaving a short stub that will dry out on its own. Some gardeners prefer to wait until the entire stalk turns yellow and pulls away easily, but cutting it earlier prevents the plant from wasting stored energy on seed development.
Leave the foliage completely untouched at this stage. Those long, strap-like leaves are essential for photosynthesis and will help the bulb rebuild its strength.
Shift Focus to Leaf Growth
After the flowers are gone, the amaryllis enters a vegetative growth phase where the leaves do all the work. This period typically lasts from late winter through summer and determines whether your bulb will have enough stored energy to bloom again.
Place the plant in a bright location where it receives plenty of indirect sunlight. A south or west-facing window works well, or you can move the pot outdoors once nighttime temperatures stay consistently above 50°F.
Watering During the Growth Phase
Water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Amaryllis bulbs are susceptible to rot, so never let the pot sit in standing water or keep the soil constantly soggy.
Reduce watering slightly if you notice the leaves turning yellow, as this may indicate overwatering rather than natural die-back.
Fertilizing to Rebuild the Bulb
Feed your amaryllis every two to three weeks with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength. A formula with equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium works well during this phase.
Continue fertilizing through the summer months until you begin the dormancy process. The nutrients help the bulb grow larger and store the carbohydrates needed for future flower production.
Moving the Plant Outdoors
Many amaryllis bulbs benefit from spending late spring and summer outdoors. The increased light and air circulation promote vigorous leaf growth and bulb development.
Choose a spot with bright, indirect light or partial shade. Full sun can scorch the leaves, while deep shade won’t provide enough energy for the bulb to strengthen.
You can keep the amaryllis in its pot or plant it directly in the ground if you live in a frost-free climate. If planting in the ground, mark the location clearly so you remember to dig it up before cold weather arrives.
Acclimate the plant gradually over several days to prevent leaf burn. Start with an hour or two in a shaded spot, then slowly increase exposure.
Allow Natural Leaf Die-Back
In late summer or early fall, stop fertilizing and gradually reduce watering. The leaves will begin to yellow and collapse as the plant prepares for dormancy.
Do not cut green leaves. Allow them to turn completely brown and wither naturally, as they continue to transfer nutrients back to the bulb even as they fade.
Once the foliage has dried out entirely, you can trim it off about two inches above the bulb. If you’re growing the amaryllis outdoors, bring it inside before the first frost.
Provide a Dormancy Period
Amaryllis bulbs need a rest period of eight to twelve weeks to reset their bloom cycle. This dormancy mimics the dry season the plants experience in their native South American habitat.
Store the potted bulb in a cool, dark, dry location where temperatures stay between 50°F and 55°F. A basement, garage, or closet often works well, as long as the area doesn’t freeze.
Storage Options
You can leave the bulb in its pot without watering during dormancy, or remove it from the soil and store it bare. If storing bare bulbs, brush off excess soil but don’t wash them, and place them in a paper bag or cardboard box with good air circulation.
Check stored bulbs monthly for signs of rot or shriveling. A slightly soft bulb is normal, but discard any bulbs that develop mushy spots or mold.
Bring the Bulb Out of Dormancy
After eight to twelve weeks of rest, you can wake up your amaryllis and start the growth cycle again. Most gardeners time this to bring plants into bloom during the winter holidays, but you can force blooming at other times of year.
If you stored the bulb in its pot, move it to a warm, bright location and resume watering lightly. If you stored it bare, replant it in fresh potting soil, leaving the top third of the bulb exposed above the soil line.
Water sparingly until you see new growth emerging from the top of the bulb. Too much water before active growth begins can cause the bulb to rot.
Timing the Next Bloom
Count backward from your desired bloom date to determine when to end dormancy. Most amaryllis bulbs produce flowers six to eight weeks after watering resumes, though this varies by variety and bulb size.
Larger bulbs tend to bloom faster and may produce multiple flower stalks. Smaller bulbs may take longer or skip a year of blooming while they build up strength.
Repotting Considerations
Amaryllis bulbs don’t need frequent repotting and actually bloom best when slightly pot-bound. Repot only when the bulb has outgrown its container or if the soil has broken down and drains poorly.
Choose a pot that allows just one to two inches of space around the bulb. A pot that’s too large holds excess moisture and increases the risk of rot.
Use a well-draining potting mix formulated for bulbs or cacti, or create your own by mixing equal parts potting soil, perlite, and coarse sand. Make sure the pot has drainage holes.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
If your amaryllis fails to bloom after dormancy, the bulb likely didn’t store enough energy during the growth phase. Ensure it receives adequate light and fertilizer next time, and consider extending the growth period before inducing dormancy.
Bulbs that produce leaves but no flowers may need a longer or cooler dormancy period. Try storing them for the full twelve weeks at temperatures closer to 50°F.
Pest and Disease Issues
Watch for red blotches or streaks on the leaves and bulb, which indicate red blotch disease, a fungal infection common in amaryllis. Remove affected leaves immediately and reduce watering frequency.
Mealybugs and spider mites occasionally infest indoor amaryllis plants. Wipe leaves with a damp cloth or treat with insecticidal soap if you notice cottony white masses or fine webbing.
Long-Term Care Strategy
With consistent care, an amaryllis bulb can bloom reliably for many years and even produce offset bulbs that you can separate and grow into new plants. The bulb should increase in size each year, often producing larger or multiple flower stalks as it matures.
Keep records of when you start and end dormancy, when blooms appear, and which care methods work best for your conditions. This helps you fine-tune your timing and replicate successful results.
Some gardeners maintain multiple bulbs on staggered schedules to enjoy amaryllis blooms throughout the winter and spring. Once you understand the basic cycle, you can experiment with timing to create your own indoor bulb display.
Your amaryllis has plenty of life left after those first stunning blooms fade away. By providing proper post-bloom care, a dormancy period, and appropriate growing conditions, you can enjoy the same bulb year after year and watch it grow stronger with each cycle.
We hope this guide helps you successfully care for your amaryllis beyond its initial bloom season and enjoy many more flowers in the years ahead.